Wasp Knife, injects CO2 into target

http://www.waspknife.com/

this knife can inject CO2 into a target. I can imagine that that would not do good things for any kind of creature xD. It takes regular CO2 like from a pellet gun. Pretty Awesome, even for almost 400$

How to Make a Silencer

How to Make a Silencer
Brian Douglas Kendall

A firearm silencer, also known as a suppressor, works in the same way as a car muffler. The muffler consists of chambers for the compression to be dispersed and the sound to be redirected or absorbed. Heat is also reduced throughout the muffler system. A firearm silencer works on the same principle.

There are generally three sections to a firearm silencer:

The first stage of the firearm silencer ususally consists of something that will absorb and dissipate heat rapidly. It also allows for part of the compression to be reduced due to the quick cooling of gases.

The second stage of the firearm silencer usually consists of rubber or plastic washers or discs that help slow down the bullet to sub sonic speeds. It also helps reduce compression.

The third and more complicated stage of the firearm silencer usually consists of tall wooden washers with rubber discs between them or thick chambers of soft plastic. The end of this stage has a low wear rubber cylinder to slow down outgoing air.

The entire firearm silencer is contained within a one and a half inch 300 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) plastic PVC pipe.

Parts list:

• 1x 6-14″ 300psi plastic PVC pipe
• 10-15x Rubber or medium hardness plastic discs
• 11-16x Soft Wood washers with 1 1/4″ internal diameter
• 1x Rubber cylinder
• 5x Rubber discs
• 6x tall wooden washers, plain
• 2x steel plugs for the middle and front of the firearm silencer
• 1x heat and pressure dispersement rod with positioning rings, black.
• 2x stabilizer donuts to keep the firearm silencer straight, red.
• 4x separator discs, green.
• 1x Adapter to attach the firearm silencer to the firearm.

Discs can be cut out with a hole saw, purchased from any local hardware store. The materials can be bought there also. Rubber or plastic can be cut out of tires or trashcans. wooden washers can be cut out of particle board. The steel plugs can be bought at any automotive store as freeze plugs. The heat and pressure rod can be bought at any metal shop; buy at 4-6 inches long Aluminium tube at about 1/8″ thick with an ID (Internal Diameter) as close to the bullet size as possible. Stabilizer donuts can be cut out of birch or oak wood and then drilled with a hole drill. All discs and inserted materials except the head rod should be slightly under 1 1/2″ diameter so that they will fill snugly in the tube.

The heat rod should be drilled full of holes 1/4″ from each end. These holes should be about the same size as the bullet. Leave about a quarter inch gap between each hole. Place a wooden donut at each end and wrap the rod in aluminium screen. Screw the rod into the wood or use epoxy. Place this part into the tube first, this should be very tight and could even have to be hammered into the tube, however do not use screws or glue to hammer it in place.

Now place a steel plug in the tube so that the rounded end is facing the top or exit hole. Now place the adapter in the tube followed by the stabilizer donuts. Make sure the barrel will seat securely in the adapter and that the donuts are snug on the barrel. Make sure you place a separator disc between each stage. Drill little holes in the tube about halfway into the adapter and donuts and place small screws in place to hold them securely.

Note that a small angle is cut into the adaptor to facilitate the sight of the gun. The adaptor has to be reamed at an angle so that the sight will not interfere.

Place a smaller PVC pipe in the front end and push the heat dispersement chamber up to the separator disc, next to the adaptor.

Now from the top, place a wooden washer then plastic disc, washer, disc etc. 9mm ammunition usually requires 12-15 and a 22 usually 6-9. There should be 12-15 discs and 13-16 wooden washers, do not end up with a washer, now place another separator in place.

Last you will need to insert two rubber discs and a tall wooden washer, two discs then a washer. Now place another separator in place. Place the large rubber cylinder in place, this should be about 1/2″ thick. Place the steel plug in place so that the rounded end is facing outwards and rivet it into the front carefully.

Before using be sure there is a clean hole all the way. Use a wooden dowel to see if the firearm silencer is lined up with the barrel hole. All inserted parts should have a hole in the center that is comparable in size to the size of the bullet’s diameter.

Things you should know:

• Suppressors will slow down the bullet and cause it to defract in another direction.
• Suppressors do not operate well in cold wheather but this one will for the first few hundred rounds.
• If you wish to shoot full auto you must double the quantity of internal parts and use an aluminium pipe covered with neoprene sleeve, remember that metal dings.
• Firearm silencers are illegal in some areas; be safe and know the firearm silencer laws in your location.

Books on How to Make a Silencer

Workbench Silencers

Here is a slew of new and interesting improvised silencer designs featuring innovative couplings plus variations on aluminum cans, oil filters, PVC pipe, plumbing devices, water sprinkler pieces and other unique materials. Warning: It is illegal to possess or make a silencer without BATF registration.

More Workbench Silencers

After writing his popular book Workbench Silencers: The Art of Improvised Designs, inventor George Hollenback came up with a number of clever ways to affix common itemrs to the end of a firearm ot help suppress its noisy report. More Workbench Silencers features the best of these designs, including four different types of slip-on silencers and three perforated tube designs. These silencers are devised for the popular Ruger .22 bull barrel pistol, the venerable Colt .45 semiauto handgun, the compact .380 Makarov, and even the Maverick Model 88 bullpup shotgun. All of these gun silencers can be made with ordinary materials available at any hardware store.

Modern Firearm Silencers

This illustrated report on suppressor technology presents innovative designs of well-known suppressor manufacturers and offers definitive comparisons of models based on prices, features, kits, independent manufacturers and technological advances. It also examines the history of the silencer and the attitudes of the U.S. government, the public and terrorists about its usage.

Home Workshop Silencers I

More than fifty 9″ x 12″ working machinist’s drawings present clear step-by-step directions for building three different advanced firearm silencers for submachine guns and pistols. Improvised materials and machining techniques are suggested.

Hayduke Silencer Book

Learn how to make a silencer from common items found around the house. George Hayduke, the Master of Revenge, will show you how! Enter the world of muffled mayhem with these simple, effective and legal silencer designs.

Silent But Deadly: More Homemade Silencers From Hayduke The Master

Despite what the Brady bunch might say, silencers serve some very civilized functions and contribute to a saner, quieter way of life, which is why a lot of folks like them. After reading The Hayduke Silencer Book, many readers shared their own ideas for simple designs you can build at home, legally. Here is the cream of the crop.

How To Make A Silencer For A .22

This handy little manual teaches you everything you need to know to legally manufacture a silencer for any .22 – without a lathe or welder. These inexpensive homemade silencers give you all the suppression you need, thread on solidly, do not affect your accuracy or the gun’s functioning and last for hundreds of rounds.

How to Make a Silencer For A .45

Because it does not produce a sonic “crack,” the .45 is an ideal pistol for a silencer. Here is a nuts-and-bolts guide to making your own silencer for the Colt 1911 Government Model .45 and its clones. Includes construction details for all components, manufacturing tips that will save you time and effort, and plenty of clear illustrations.

Sporting and Tactical Silencers

This is the most significant book on firearm silencers in years. Find out the story behind and incredible capabilities of modern silencers used by elite military units and secretive government agencies. Author Alan Paulson has been called “the dean of the American silencer experts today.”

Silencer History and Performance: Cqb, Assault Rifle, and Sniper Technology

This highly anticipated second volume in the Silencer History and Performance series provides an unprecedented look into the evolution, tactical employment and performance of historic and state-of-the-art silenced firearms suitable for close-quarters combat, long-distance sniping and other professional applications. It chronicles the production of pioneering silenced weapons used during World War II and the Cold War as well as the more sophisticated low-signature designs and tactics that emerged from the Vietnam War and again during an explosion of creative development in the 1990s. The authors have combined recently declassified materials, numerous confidential sources and years of hands-on evaluations to reveal a wealth of information about today’s incredible screw-on and integral suppressors.

Workbench Silencers : The Art Of Improvised Designs (Silencers)

Here is a slew of new and interesting improvised silencer designs featuring innovative couplings plus variations on aluminum cans, oil filters, PVC pipe, plumbing devices, water sprinkler pieces and other unique materials. Warning: It is illegal to possess or make a silencer without BATF registration.

How To Make A Silencer For A Mini-14

The Ruger Mini-14 may be the ultimate plinker, hunting and survival rifle. If you already have the many accessories available for it, why not complete your collection with a do-it-yourself silencer? Here are step-by-step instructions to show you how to construct a tough, working silencer able to handle the high pressures generated by the Mini-14’s .223 round. All BATF rules apply.

Silencers For Hand Firearms

One of the world’s foremost experts, Siegfried Huebner has published numerous books and articles in his native Germany, and he has drawn from extensive research at the Mauser works, Heckler & Koch and the German army proving ground to bring to you this, his first English-language text on silencers. This complete and authoritative guide includes chapters on the principles of silencers, WWII silencers, clandestine weapons and more.

The Legalities Of Silencer Ownership

Advanced Armament

The Legalities Of Silencer Ownership

Contrary to popular belief, silencers are and always have been legal to own under federal law. There are, however, 16 states, plus the District of Columbia that prohibit the civilian ownership of silencers. At this time, the following states allow private ownership of silencers: AL, AR, AK, AZ, CO, CT, FL, GA, ID, IN, KY, LA, ME, MD, MS, MT, NE, NV, NH, NM, NC, OH, OK, OR, PA, SC, SD, TN, TX, UT, VA, WA, WI, and WY. Of the fifteen states that do not allow civilian ownership, CA, IA, KS, MA, MO, and MI allow Class 3 dealers and Class two manufacturers to possess silencers.

Silencers, like machine-guns, are proscribed under the National Firearms Act (NFA) of 1934, and are regulated by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms. The procedure for owning a silencer may seem daunting at first, but actually requires less paperwork than buying an automobile.

To legally purchase a silencer or any item falling under the purview of the NFA, you must be at least 21 years of age, a resident of the United States, and have no felony record. The first step is to locate a Class 3 dealer in your state who either has or will order the item you are interested in. Once a product and price have been settled on, the Class 3 dealer will provide the prospective purchaser with duplicate ATF Form 4’s and two sets of fingerprint cards. The Form 4’s must be filled out on both sides, with passport photos of the prospective buyer affixed to the backside of the form. The buyer then has the Chief Law-Enforcement officer* sign the rear of the Form 4’s attesting the prospective purchaser does not possess a criminal record and is not wanted. The two fingerprint cards must be completed and signed by a Law Enforcement agency. The completed paperwork is then sent to the Department of the Treasury with a check or money order for $200.00. The $200.00 is known as a “transfer tax” because as it must be paid whenever ownership of the silencer is “transferred” (in this case, the dealer to the prospective purchaser). As long as ownership remains with the same person, the tax need not be paid again. Only if the owner sells it will a new transfer tax need to be paid. An owner may will his silencer to a lawful heir with no tax incurred.

Once the paper work is submitted, it normally takes 60 to 120 days to receive the approved, stamped paperwork from NFA Branch. It is only upon the return of the approved paperwork that the dealer can allow the prospective purchaser to take possession of their new silencer. A copy of the approved paperwork must accompany the silencer at all times (the original should be stored in a safe deposit box). Silencers can be transported to other states that allow their ownership, but to transport a silencer into one of the sixteen states which prohibit private ownership can subject the owner to serious state felony charges.

*The following is a list of typically encountered Chief Law Enforcement Officers (CLEO):

• Sheriff
• Chief of Police
• Head of State Police Agency
• District Attorney
• A judge with the power of arrest
• Any other law enforcement officer approved for this procedure by the National Firearms Act branch of the BATF.

How to make a Flame Thrower

How to make your own flamethower by some kid!

My flamethrower has two main parts, a gun/hose assembly, and the tank. I made the gun first:   It’s made entirely of parts you can get at your average hardware store. The hose connects to a stop valve, which connects to a short pipe nipple that’s tapped directly into the tank.   The tank took a while to make, because I let each set of chemical welds dry before doing the next ones. The ends of the tank are two 90 deg. elbows and two 90 deg. street elbows, welded to make two full 180 deg. “U”s. One side of the tank is a 2′ length of 4″ sch.40 PVC, the other is a 4″x4″x1.5” T with standard pipe attached to each 4” socket.   Before assembling the parts, I drilled and threaded the two holes I needed in the tank ends: a 1/4″ standard pipe hole for the outlet to the hose, and a 1/8″ standard pipe hole for the valve that I would use to pressurize the tank. Interesting note: 1/4″ and 1/8″ pipes have no actual relation to the measurements of distance commonly known as the quarter inch and eighth inch. The holes are actually 7/16″ and 11/32″ respectively. Hooray for non-metric measurements.   Next step: cement one end of the tank:   Then the other:   After the tank dried, I dredged up an old camping backpack to hold it. I cut a hole in the bottom of the pack and screwed the gun/hose assembly into the base of the tank.   Finally, I screwed in the Schrader valve (which I bought from http://www.spudtech.com, an excellent online retailer for PVC weapons and parts) to complete the tank:   Now the whole rig was ready for some pressure testing. Since I would soon be running the distinct risk of giving myself heat-assisted, deep tissue exfoliation, I was extra-careful to make sure there weren’t any leaks. I used up a lot of Teflon tape.   And, after filling the tank with water for a trial run, made sure the cleanout cap was on nice and tight   before flipping on the air compressor.   No leaks! At this point, I had quite possibly the world’s most kick-ass super-soaker.   Of course, I didn’t go through all that effort for a damn squirt gun. So I added a pilot light in the form of a blow torch.   Much better! The finished product:   There was only one thing left. Add some fuel (denatured alcohol; PVC is soluble in gasoline)   And TURN UP THE HEAT.

Simulate Fully Automatic Fire

Bump firing with a rubber band

Knife Fighting Part 3

Knife Fighting Part 2

Knife Fighting Part 1

12 GA. “Armor Piercing” Shotgun Shell

http://www.firequest.com/catalog/12gaarmorpcing.html

“This awesome round houses enough power to penetrate the thickest car doors, commercial steel doors and most objects up to 1/4″ steel plate. This slug has a steel penetrator button, boosted by a very hot charge, has an unbelievable velocity to slice through metal like a hot knife slices through butter.”

These rounds are very expensive at 20 bucks for 3, but it wouldn’t hurt to have a few around just in case. Also note that these may or may not be rate to penetrate actual body armor. I would hesitate to call it “armor piercing” but may still be useful.