How to Make a Silencer

How to Make a Silencer
Brian Douglas Kendall

Make SilencerA firearm silencer, also known as a suppressor, works in the same way as a car muffler. The muffler consists of chambers for the compression to be dispersed and the sound to be redirected or absorbed. Heat is also reduced throughout the muffler system. A firearm silencer works on the same principle.

There are generally three sections to a firearm silencer:

The first stage of the firearm silencer ususally consists of something that will absorb and dissipate heat rapidly. It also allows for part of the compression to be reduced due to the quick cooling of gases.

The second stage of the firearm silencer usually consists of rubber or plastic washers or discs that help slow down the bullet to sub sonic speeds. It also helps reduce compression.

The third and more complicated stage of the firearm silencer usually consists of tall wooden washers with rubber discs between them or thick chambers of soft plastic. The end of this stage has a low wear rubber cylinder to slow down outgoing air.

The entire firearm silencer is contained within a one and a half inch 300 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) plastic PVC pipe.

Parts list:

  • 1x 6-14″ 300psi plastic PVC pipe
  • 10-15x Rubber or medium hardness plastic discs
  • 11-16x Soft Wood washers with 1 1/4″ internal diameter
  • 1x Rubber cylinder
  • 5x Rubber discs
  • 6x tall wooden washers, plain
  • 2x steel plugs for the middle and front of the firearm silencer
  • 1x heat and pressure dispersement rod with positioning rings, black.
  • 2x stabilizer donuts to keep the firearm silencer straight, red.
  • 4x separator discs, green.
  • 1x Adapter to attach the firearm silencer to the firearm.

Discs can be cut out with a hole saw, purchased from any local hardware store. The materials can be bought there also. Rubber or plastic can be cut out of tires or trashcans. wooden washers can be cut out of particle board. The steel plugs can be bought at any automotive store as freeze plugs. The heat and pressure rod can be bought at any metal shop; buy at 4-6 inches long Aluminium tube at about 1/8″ thick with an ID (Internal Diameter) as close to the bullet size as possible. Stabilizer donuts can be cut out of birch or oak wood and then drilled with a hole drill. All discs and inserted materials except the head rod should be slightly under 1 1/2″ diameter so that they will fill snugly in the tube.

The heat rod should be drilled full of holes 1/4″ from each end. These holes should be about the same size as the bullet. Leave about a quarter inch gap between each hole. Place a wooden donut at each end and wrap the rod in aluminium screen. Screw the rod into the wood or use epoxy. Place this part into the tube first, this should be very tight and could even have to be hammered into the tube, however do not use screws or glue to hammer it in place.

Now place a steel plug in the tube so that the rounded end is facing the top or exit hole. Now place the adapter in the tube followed by the stabilizer donuts. Make sure the barrel will seat securely in the adapter and that the donuts are snug on the barrel. Make sure you place a separator disc between each stage. Drill little holes in the tube about halfway into the adapter and donuts and place small screws in place to hold them securely.

Note that a small angle is cut into the adaptor to facilitate the sight of the gun. The adaptor has to be reamed at an angle so that the sight will not interfere.

Place a smaller PVC pipe in the front end and push the heat dispersement chamber up to the separator disc, next to the adaptor.

Now from the top, place a wooden washer then plastic disc, washer, disc etc. 9mm ammunition usually requires 12-15 and a 22 usually 6-9. There should be 12-15 discs and 13-16 wooden washers, do not end up with a washer, now place another separator in place.

Last you will need to insert two rubber discs and a tall wooden washer, two discs then a washer. Now place another separator in place. Place the large rubber cylinder in place, this should be about 1/2″ thick. Place the steel plug in place so that the rounded end is facing outwards and rivet it into the front carefully.

Before using be sure there is a clean hole all the way. Use a wooden dowel to see if the firearm silencer is lined up with the barrel hole. All inserted parts should have a hole in the center that is comparable in size to the size of the bullet’s diameter.

Things you should know:

  • Suppressors will slow down the bullet and cause it to defract in another direction.
  • Suppressors do not operate well in cold wheather but this one will for the first few hundred rounds.
  • If you wish to shoot full auto you must double the quantity of internal parts and use an aluminium pipe covered with neoprene sleeve, remember that metal dings.
  • Firearm silencers are illegal in some areas; be safe and know the firearm silencer laws in your location.

6 Responses to “How to Make a Silencer”

  1. Luke Leatherbee Says:

    cool stuff, however pictures would be more than appropriate.

  2. William Eakens Says:

    Although I am not complaining, the aforementioned instructions would only be useful in a workshop environment, with an instructor to show every step involved. I am very mechanically inclined, and the instructions above are not detailed in the least, and lack any supporting drawings. Why? I would appreciate any help in these areas you might provide.

    Thanx for your time,

    William Eakens

  3. IMO, this design seems overly complicated, and flawed.

    A suppressor doesn’t by default slow down the bullet through contact with any internal ‘wipes’ etc.

    Instead, ammunition that is specially loaded to subsonic velocities is used. This provides much greater accuracy than having the bullet graze or punch through a number of wipes. If you want any accuracy at all, the internal baffles, end caps, etc. must have holes large enough to ensure the bullets won’t make contact with them after exiting the muzzle.

  4. Peace and Quiet Says:

    Not a bad start Mr. Kendall, but it is clear that you are still somewhat inexperienced with the technology. Perhaps I might offer some small correction:

    (Note: This author has not seen nor is aware of any pictures that go with this article that might eliminate the confusion generated by the article itself – thus the following)

    1. A well made silencer will increase bullet velocity over a standard barrel.
    2. Additional weight of a well made silencer will enhance accuracy.
    3. Outside temperature only effects relative density of the atmosphere and subsequently the transmission of sound. A well made silencer will diminish the same amount of decibels at any temperature.
    4. Section 2. assumption that the inserted discs served to slow the bullet is inaccurate. As later asserted that the section 1 ‘combustion chamber’ serves to diminish gas pressure and stretch the rate that the exhaust gases leave the unit, so does section 2…and section 3. In fact, all the sections of a silencer are designed to reduce exhaust gas pressure from at or about 3,000psi to hopefully somewhere less than 100psi as they leave the weapon.
    5. The ‘upgrades’ suggested for firing full auto…uhh, no. Not necessarily. However, it is agreed that aluminum does make a lovely ting if a silencer’s tolerances are ginormous.

    1. Are you using the rubber discs as a wipe (Material extending within the diameter of the round; typically to increase sound attenuation)? If yes, again, your claiming that the wipe ‘will’ cause the round to slow and defract is again predicated upon the relative quality of the silencer and accuracy or concentricity between wipe and round. Most manufacturers quit using wipes due to the difficulties presented by the issue of accuracy and the issue that wipes degrade over time. However, Brugger & Thomet still include a model with wipes which is still very effective. Moreover, any loss of velocity caused by a wipe should be nominal.


    Making a silencer with several types of material does lend itself to the reduction of harmonic noises (Remember your aluminum ‘ting’?)…so a scuba suit might not be necessary. Better still, be diligent to diminish tolerance issues either through better measurement or correction.

    Using a flat-stack baffle set up can oftentimes be made a bit better by applying preglued female velcro to the barrel facing side of the baffle. Said velcro readily holds water for about 20-35 rounds in various calibered silencers.

    Logic leads me to believe that if you are in a situation where stealth is a prerequisite, the firing of more than 20-35 rounds fairly well indicates that stealth has left the building, so, why not a wet medium silencer? Refilling can be as quick as a dunk in a toilet for a few seconds followed by a quick shake (Same shake used by guys in the bathroom for other equipment)…after which you can go back into the livingroom and resume plinking at cans on the tv, terrifying your cat or whatever you may be doing at the moment.

    Redirection, expansion, heat absorption and delay are the key words to remember in silencer design. Two directions that need exploration are better sound canceling and a better wet medium (duration/attenuation).

    Last, it’s important to remember that a complicated mousetrap isn’t always a better mousetrap. Proof of this can be found at the Advanced Armament Corp website. Click on the silencer tab and look at their new rimfire design (Genius…and no, I don’t work there). Remember: K.I.S.S. Nothing more embarrassing than showing up somewhere and having to ask your target to go smoke a cigarette while you look under his sofa for the end cap and baffle stack that fell out of your silencer. Not good manners now, is it?


  5. sairajesh Says:

    hello sir , my name is rajesh mechanical engineer 1st year studying i am interest about research

  6. […] How to Make a Silencer | Survival Resources – Apr 14, 2008 · How to Make a Silencer Brian Douglas Kendall. A firearm silencer, also known as a suppressor, works in the same way as a car muffler. The muffler consists …… […]

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